In case you’ve noticed, my last few posts have not been about the ZephyrEye. Not to fear – ZephyrEye is alive and well! Boards should be readily available soon. So for everyone out there interested in hacking together some Battlefront radar screens with your paintball/laser tag buddies, it is coming shortly. Of course, if you can’t wait, feel free to grab the schematics and spin your own PCB ;)
So what the heck have I been posting about? As I mentioned previously, I’m taking a Mechatronics course where we have to build a checker playing robot. Here’s a conceptual animation for the design that my team and I came up with:
I used Blender3D to animate this video. I’ve found with several of my robotics projects that most people get confused when I try to describe it. By making a rough 3D sketch and animating the intended functionality, I’ve been able to talk with people much more effectively and get faster and better feedback about what will or won’t work. It also helps me get several jumbled and mixed together concepts in my head down to a single, better defined concept. If you’re planning on doing robotics, especially if you’re working on it from an electronics point of view, I’d highly recommend learning a 3D sketching system. But I digress…
So this checker playing robot needs to be able to play checkers completely autonomously. Most teams used either a stationary robotic arm or gantry style approach. I’ve never been a big fan of either, in fact, I’m pretty enamored with the concept of small autonomous mobile robots. A big reason for this is the ability to quickly apply swarm concepts to these robots if you build a few up, which is something I always toy around with in the back of my head but never do.
Here’s some of the primary system components and a simple description of each of them:
- XMega256: Pretty powerful little chip. I both appreciate this chip and its potential, and at the same time can’t believe how long the errata list is. It’s pretty bad, but fortunately I haven’t run into too much trouble yet. I’ll be using this for all of the checker-playing AI, computer vision, and localization tasks. Yep, you heard me: computer vision on an AVR!
- C328: OK, so the computer vision isn’t as hard as it could be – the COMedia C328 is a pretty easy to use (relatively speaking) UART camera. The datasheet sucks, and it looks like it’s being discontinued. I’m sure other similar parts will crop up soon, though. I’ve been reading in raw 565 RGB images into the XMega RAM and finding color blobs with it. I can also transmit a JPEG to a computer via XBee.
- XBee: I use these for just about everything. I usually write up a debug interface between the computer terminal and the robot so I can debug very quickly, and portably – it’s just as easy to debug and control from my desktop as it is my laptop, making presentations a lot easier.
- Servos: We went with servos for motor control. As my other posts have alluded, I’m using some hacked for continuous rotation, and instead of controlling position I’m controlling their speed with a standard servo signal. To maintain balance (I didn’t want to go down the inverted pendulum road…), the bot also has a servo with a “propeller” mounted in front. The propeller slides over checkers as the bot goes forward and backwards, but rotates when the bot turns to avoid strafing the board and moving checker pieces all over the place.
- IR Sensors: There’s a bank of 6 IR emitter/detector pairs on the front of the bot. These are used to detect where the bot is at on the checkerboard. By monitoring the difference between when a left and IR detectors hit a checker square, you can also correct and maintain orientation so you don’t knock checkers all over the board.
- Odometer Sensors: More IR sensors, this time the QRE1113 reflectance sensors. These sensors monitor a band of alternating light/dark colors on the inside of the wheel, so every time the wheel moves a certain distance, the XMega gets a “tick” that’s worth a certain distance.
- Chassis: A benefit of being in school, I have access to 3D printers that can take certain CAD files and actually “print” 3D objects in ABS plastic. We used this for the chassis, which put all of our servo mounts, sensor mounts, and other typically difficult-to-make-precise-on-prototype features a lot more accurate. It cost about $30 – not bad for what we get.
That’s the general idea. Here’s a picture of where it’s at right now:
Here’s hoping that I get it done in time! I don’t think it’ll get done in 12 parsecs, but that’s a measurement of space and not time anyway …
Thought I would blog about hacking the 9g servos from SparkFun and converting them to continuous rotation since I’m performing said hack for an upcoming project. I’m sure there are more and better instructions on how to do this, but I’ve looked at tutorials before for larger servos and noticed these little guys are a bit different.
What I’m doing is changing a servo that normally has around 90-120 degrees of motion to have full 360 continuous rotation. Instead of the servo reacting to the standard PWM signal as a position signal, it will now act as a velocity signal with full forward/stop/reverse control! Best of all, when people tell you the servos on your YT-1300 look like a piece of junk, you can tell them you’ve made a few special modifications yourself.
Apology in advance for the images – I promise to never use my cell phone cam for blogging again! It’s abysmally unfit for close up pictures of electronics.
Take the servo apart
Remove the sticky label (goo-be-gone is needed) and remove the screws. You’ll likely need a jewelry screw driver. Pull all three sections apart, remove the gears, and remove the white plastic cover over the potentiometer. Easy peasy.
Cut out the stops
I’m running on memory, so feel free to correct me in comments if I’m wrong. I recall this as the part that’s different from the standard sized servos. There are stops on the potentiometer and you practically have to cut out half of the pot to get it to rotate properly. This is because the pot shaft is used as the axis for the gears and external drive shaft. Boo to the man that designed it this way, unless it made it significantly cheaper. In that case, yay… but boo.
Warning: The plastic on the pot is EXTREMELY brittle. If the pot case crumbles, your servo is trashed.
Proceeding onward. You’ll see two plastic stops in the pot – cut it out in small pieces. Once that’s gone, you’ve got to remove the potwiper. The copper-colored middle terminal of the pot should come out with a little force at this point. There are a couple of “C” shaped metal tabs that will come out with it. Now cut the entire terminal off and leave the wire hanging for now.
On one of my servos, I cut it out without pulling the shaft out. On another, the shaft hole cracked cand the whole shaft came out which made this easier – but I’ll have to report later as to whether it still works well or not.
You also need to cut out the springy piece. You can’t remove it completely, it appears to be connected with the shaft itself, so you’ll need to cut it flush against the remaining metal flange.
The final stop that has to be cut is on the actual case, just inside the hole where the shaft exits the case. Flush cutters make quick work of this, but an Xacto knife could probably work too.
Solder resistors in place of pot
So that the potentiometer has a reference point for its control loop, we need to solder resistors in place of the pot. I used two 10K resistors, which will make the signal that would have centered the servo be the stop position. Positions signals right from the signal will be forward, and positions left from the signal will be reverse.
Solder the two 10K resistors (surface mount or 1/8W or smaller should fit) in series between the two remaining posts. Then solder the currently-floating middle terminal wire in between the two resistors.
Put the servo back together
Pretty straightforward. Do step one in reverse. The gears may feel like a puzzle, but there’s only one way they fit. Lastly, be careful with the screws – they strip out pretty easy.
Shazaam! Full control of a motor with great torque/gear ratio with only a half hour’s worth of effort.